- Use crank removal tool to remove crank
- Be careful not to cross thread tool. Cleaning threads with grease will help.
- Minimum gap reqd for install. Can be slightly less if blocks trimmed.
- Remove bottom bracket retainer and axle
- Install extension axle and bearings.
- Loosely attach mounting bracket.
- Attach motor to bracket
- Install front sprocket and freewheeling crank, align motor and tighten bracket nuts
- Use chain tool to attach extra links. Approx 4 reqd. Ensure chain still bends freely after this step.
- Install pulley as shown for CW motor. Install nut on last motor bolt at arrow.
- Install throttle on RH handle bar
- Install gear control on left
- Plug throttle to motor
- Plug battery to motor
- Finished and ready to ride.
- CCW motor pulley install
For an electric bike, the above photos show installation to a ‘hard-tail’ electric bicycle with enough clearance for a lower install on your electric bike. However, this kit can be installed on any electric bike or bicycle and can be installed in numerous spots on your electric bike, in many configurations. If you are in Christchurch, we recommend you have us install it on your electric bike. This will cost $150 inc GST for the above standard install on your electric bike. I can get a bike collected from anywhere in NZ shipped to me and returned to you as an electric bike for $90. Custom or difficult electric bike installations may cost a little more. A reliable local bike shop will generally install the kit on an electric bike for around the same price, or just do the crank removal/install and chain work to make it an electric bike for a lot less.
For various installation options check www.cyclone-tw.com
We can also install various electric bike accessories, only limited by your imagination. Because the electric bike has electricity on tap, we can easily install custom lights, cigarette lighter accessory plugs, car stereos, GPS, horns, indicators, usb chargers etc etc. One friend suggested I should fit a toaster……The only thing we can’t provide on your electric bike is the smile………..
Some installation tips:
- Breaking a chain is reasonably straight forward, but requires some attention to detail. When you push the pin out, don’t push it all the way, it makes it nigh on impossible to reinstall without damage. For pin removal/install always use the back half of the tool. After you have pushed the pin back in ensure the chain bends freely. If it doesn’t, use the chain tools forward position to nudge pin each way until it becomes free.
- If breaking/connecting to a modern bike you may find the chain is a Shimano HG or IG. This is clearly marked on the chain. These are Hyper-Glide or Interglide. Basically the chain and headset are specially designed so that the chain engages two gears simultaneously whilst shifting. These chains are especially strong, and extra care must be used when breaking/installing. You can use any chain tool but an HG compatible tool such as the Park CT-3 or the Shimano TL-CN31 is recommended. Always lube the pin prior to install.
- If when riding you hear excessive chain noise, as with any bike, investigate the cause as soon as practical. A lot of force is transferred through the chain and if not running correctly, damage can occur. 99% of all chain problems will be one of the following easily remedied problems. Tight links, easily identified as the noise comes once per revolution. To cure see above. The other most likely cause is the rear derailleur is out of adjustment. This can also be easily identified by standing at the rear of the bike and checking if the chain is perfectly central on the rear sprocket with which it is engaged. To remedy, tighten or loosen cable as required either at handlebar, or at rear cable attach point.
- When aligning motor to bike, slide motor until motor sprocket touches front sprocket and then tighten bracket mount bolts progressively. When tight and true, slide motor back up to final position.
- Installation is pretty straightforward for 90% of bikes and should pose no problem for someone with a little technical ability and a few basic tools. However, as with all technical tasks, if you are having difficulty, the best thing to do is to stop and have a break and relax before continuing. An angry or frustrated mechanic tends to make mistakes, rush things, or cause damage to himself or the machine being worked on.
- If you are having a bad day and have cross threaded the crank removal tool, or don’t have one. The other way to remove a crank is to remove the attachment bolt/nut and then ride the bike! When pedaling stand up and use jerky movements, it should come loose.
- When removing/installing pedals on pedal arms, remember that L/H pedal has L/H (or backwards) thread. R/H has R/H. They are designed to naturally tighten with use and are often quite tight. They are generally stamped with L or R for easy ident.
- Feel free to contact us with any questions via phone or e-mail. We will be only to happy to help.


















I am so convinced that the motors I supply for electric bikes are the best on the planet, that if you can out-perform my machines with an identical rated battery, in NZ, I will fly you and a wife/partner/friend, to Chch and personally serve you a three course dinner in butler’s dress (me not you) outside Christchurch cathedral. This includes but is not limited to, cost, durability, range, speed, acceleration, and torque. I do not need to compete on recharge time as no-one can offer anything near the 15 minute minimum recharge we can offer. I look forward to beating you.